Gee, 90 days go quick!

It feels like just yesterday that we were arriving into the little Indonesian port town of Debut after five days sailing across the Arafura Sea. But 90 days, 2200 NM and 30+ islands later, we are anchored in Tanjungpinang, and with the rally wrapped up and our port clearances done, we are preparing to sail…

King Neptune has the last laugh

I woke up as a slimy POLLYWOG … but went to bed a trusty SHELLBACK because we crossed the equator! And crossing the equator is a coming of age for seafarers. Reaching the equator deems that you are capable of enduring long and difficult sea-voyages (apparently), and thus marks the transition from jube to experienced…

Meet the orangutans

Meet Ukraine. He’s a teenage male orangutan, and he braved the rain to be the first onto the Camp Leakey feeding platform to pig out on the bananas so he was the first one we saw on our two-day trip into the Kalimantan (Borneo) jungle to see the orangutans. He ate his fill then scarpered…

Ring of Fire

SUMBAWA – LOMBOK – GILI ISLANDS – BALI It’s pretty cool to be able to park your boat next to a volcano… “Precariously located above the grinding and mashing of tectonic plates, and ringed by a chain of fire-breathing volcanoes,”* Indonesia is located along part of the “ring of fire”, one of the most volatile…

Komodo Megafauna!

Komodo National Park has been a long-time check box on my bucket list for two main reasons: dragons and diving! The opportunity to hang out with the legendary giant lizards, the Komodo dragons, and the opportunity to dive on pristine reefs, possibly with manta-rays… …and it lived up to expectations! We got up close and…

Diving, snorkelling (and motoring) our way along Flores

We have spent the past 18 days transiting across the north coast of Flores, and without much wind, we’ve had to motor most of the time. In addition to the on-shore adventures we’ve been having like the village visits in Pulau Besar and the trip to Kelimutu volcano, one of the biggest highlights of Flores…

Stop! Thief!

We had been warned. But despite the warning, we still fell foul of Flores’ number one crime gang: the macaques (monkeys) of Kelimutu! The day started ordinarily enough. We woke early and met our driver in the pre-dawn dark out the front of a little resort in the beachside village of Geliting near Maumere on…

Detours…

“Leave the beaten track behind occasionally and dive into the the woods. Every time you do, you will be certain to find something you have never seen before.” Alexander Graham Bell Detour one: hanging out with fishermen in Karang Kaledupa coral atoll. An atoll is “a ring-shaped coral reef that surrounds a lagoon … which…

Hello Wakatobi!

“If you find that the heavenly beauty is in sight, all the potential was waiting and opened its heart, what are you waiting, we wait your presence in Wakatobi, the top ten tourism destination in Indonesia!” (Wakatobi tourism booklet) The Wakatobi region is actually four little islands in South Sulawesi: Wangi-Wangi, Kaledupa, Tomia, and Binongko….

Dear (passage) diary

Here’s a short journal of our recent 210NM, 32 hour passage from Namrole, Buru to Wanci, Wakatobi. The alarm goes off at 0145. The calculations we have made of wind, tide and distance have dictated an early start to ensure we arrive at Wanci when there is enough tide to cross the little pass in…

Sailing to the Spice Islands

The fleet sailed out of Debut, destined for the second rally stop, the famous Spice Islands of Banda! The Banda Sea, which we were traversing for approximately 175 NM, is extremely deep (more than 5000m) in places and is inky black. It’s hard to catch a fish in so much water, so we didn’t have…

Across the Arafura Sea…

650 NM non-stop! Horn Island, Australia to Debut, Indonesia. We sailed out of Horn Island with our big blue and white code zero (now affectionately known as Bertha) aloft, brimming with nervous excitement. We were expecting the passage to take about 4-5 days and the weather forecast was for decent SE trade winds, which we…