Gorontalo giants!

“Bucket list item number one: swimming with whale sharks” In Gorontalo, North Sulawesi, I finally got to tick off that bucket list item! Whale sharks (Rhincadon typus) are the world’s largest fish, growing to more than 12 metres – the same length as our sailboats – and weighing more than twenty tonnes! They are gentle…

Dinner with a King!

It’s always a joy to have dolphins riding your bow, and we were lucky enough to have two pods of dolphins accompany us on our 12 hour passage along the Central Sulawesi coast from Tolitoli to Buol. In both places we were extremely well looked after by local guides (mostly English teachers from the local…

Quatro jello!

There are only two places in the world where you can swim in an inland lake full of stingless jellyfish: (1) Palau and (2) Kakaban Island in Indonesia. Luckily for us, Kakaban Island was only a hop, skip and a jump away from our anchorage at Maratua Atoll, so we arranged a little excursion to…

Atoll anchoring ⚓️

Nerves were piqued. Hearts were beating fast. Three sets of eyes were darting about! We were entering the narrow pass through an extremely shallow reef into the atoll lagoon of Maratua. Whitewater was breaking over the treacherous shallows and we had a 4 knot current running against us, but we kept our wits about us…

Jumping ship!

It’s the end of an era. As planned, the Angel Wing crew part ways here in Tawau. Andy and Angel Wing are heading south then west, while I head east onboard SV Indigo II. It was pretty emotional leaving my home on Angel Wing, but new adventures await. Raja Ampat here I come…

Alert, not alarmed

We have made it safely into Tawau! The combined forces of the Eastern Sabah Security Zone, known as ESSCOM, escorted us through pirate-infested waters (literally), but we are all safe and sound now. We had zippy little police boats, big naval warships, and planes and helicopters buzzing overhead at times keeping an eye on us….

The mighty Kinabatangan

Borneo’s longest river – the 560 km long Kinabatangan river – is indeed a “corridor of life”.  In an epic week of wildlife-spotting, we saw pygmy elephants, orangutans, crocodiles, proboscis monkeys, macaques, langurs, snakes, pterodactyl-like birds, hornbills, and so much more! All from the relative comfort of our yachts and dinghies! But we were bloody…

Lunar-cy in Kudat

The sky has been putting on some pretty cool shows in the last week. We had the full moon lunar eclipse which lasted five hours and turned the moon ruby-red, the delta aquarids meteor shower throwing out some big shooting stars, and the sun that refused to be left out by setting in spectacular fashion….

The tribe has spoken…

“Once the votes are read, the decision is final, the person voted out will be asked to leave the tribal council area immediately.” We are back in Malaysia, and we spent a couple of days hanging out at Pulau Tiga, the location for the first ever series of the TV show, Survivor. It’s the perfect…

I ❤️ Brunei

Maybe its island living, but like the Sarawakians, the Bruneians are a chilled out friendly bunch. We spent ten days hanging out in Brunei, a tiny little enclave country wedged into Malaysian Borneo. It’s ruled by a Sultan, is predominantly Muslim, and is sitting on a big lake of oil, which finances the place. Brunei…

MCM: Crinoid shrimp

On a recent dive in Miri, Malaysia, the viz wasn’t flash so we were hunting small critters: nudis, shrimps, etc, but my favourite find of the day was this little crinoid shrimp,   As their name suggests, crinoid shrimps live on a crinoid (AKA elegant feather star),  Tropiometra carinate. Apparently lots of stuff lives in commensal relationships with…

Bring on Borneo!

After our little detour to the Anambas and Natuna Islands, we finished crossing the South China Sea and arrived in Borneo. For me, Borneo has always been synonymous with travel and adventure, and steamy jungles full of fascinating animals and poison-dart-wielding headhunters! I think this stemmed from my dad working on the oil rigs when…