Hairballs!

Bali is famous for its surf beaches, Jogjakarta is famous for its ancient temple, but the Lembeh Strait, in North Sulawesi where we anchored for the past week, is famous for hairy marine critters! And so divers from all over the world come to “muck dive” across the volcanic black sand to see all sorts…

Sailing by the seat of our pants!

We’ve been having a problem with our starboard engine for two weeks now, and Macgyver Liz has attempted to fix it using the insert of a pair of bike pants! In a nutshell, raw water isn’t pumping out consistently enough, meaning the engine isn’t being cooled sufficiently. We’ve trouble-shot the most obvious things: blockage in…

Gorontalo giants!

“Bucket list item number one: swimming with whale sharks” In Gorontalo, North Sulawesi, I finally got to tick off that bucket list item! Whale sharks (Rhincadon typus) are the world’s largest fish, growing to more than 12 metres – the same length as our sailboats – and weighing more than twenty tonnes! They are gentle…

Dinner with a King!

It’s always a joy to have dolphins riding your bow, and we were lucky enough to have two pods of dolphins accompany us on our 12 hour passage along the Central Sulawesi coast from Tolitoli to Buol. In both places we were extremely well looked after by local guides (mostly English teachers from the local…

Quatro jello!

There are only two places in the world where you can swim in an inland lake full of stingless jellyfish: (1) Palau and (2) Kakaban Island in Indonesia. Luckily for us, Kakaban Island was only a hop, skip and a jump away from our anchorage at Maratua Atoll, so we arranged a little excursion to…

Atoll anchoring ⚓️

Nerves were piqued. Hearts were beating fast. Three sets of eyes were darting about! We were entering the narrow pass through an extremely shallow reef into the atoll lagoon of Maratua. Whitewater was breaking over the treacherous shallows and we had a 4 knot current running against us, but we kept our wits about us…