Murder in Pangkor!

A murder of crows that is. There are crows EVERYWHERE here in Pangkor Marina. No seagulls, just crows. (Maybe they ate all the seagulls??) Anyway, they love to hang out in your rigging and poop on the decks. And they’re creepy. We are docked in Pangkor Marina for nearly a month, so I’ve had to…

The dizzying heights of KL

What’s the best way to see a city? On top of a 34-storey building, cocktail in hand, with a 360 degree panorama of the city skyline! KL has heaps of great sky-bars but the coolest one I’ve found so far is the Heli Lounge Bar . It’s bloody genius really: by day it’s a rooftop helipad,…

Safe as houses in the Malacca Strait

“A century ago, and for more than half a century before that, piracy was rife in the Malayan seas. … The Archipelago was split up into countless petty kingdoms and each rajah was the commander-in-chief of a pirate fleet. … A thousand rivers gave them hiding-places whence the swift warboats could dash out … and…

A change of pace in Johor

Puteri Harbour (our first stop in Malaysia) was a big change of pace! After three months in Indonesia, it was both strange and refreshing to be parked (at anchor) in a marina beside high rise buildings and shops and stuff. We hadn’t been in a marina since we left Cairns in July! We didn’t waste…

Strait sailing with the big boys!

“A typical Malaccamax* tanker has a maximum length of 333 m, beam of 60 m, draught of 20.5 m, and a tonnage of 300,000 DWT.”  That’s roughly 30 times bigger than us, and 37,000 times heavier than us!! But in order to transit from Indonesia to Malaysia, we needed to cross the Singapore Strait and…

Gee, 90 days go quick!

It feels like just yesterday that we were arriving into the little Indonesian port town of Debut after five days sailing across the Arafura Sea. But 90 days, 2200 NM and 30+ islands later, we are anchored in Tanjungpinang, and with the rally wrapped up and our port clearances done, we are preparing to sail…

King Neptune has the last laugh

I woke up as a slimy POLLYWOG … but went to bed a trusty SHELLBACK because we crossed the equator! And crossing the equator is a coming of age for seafarers. Reaching the equator deems that you are capable of enduring long and difficult sea-voyages (apparently), and thus marks the transition from jube to experienced…

Meet the orangutans

Meet Ukraine. He’s a teenage male orangutan, and he braved the rain to be the first onto the Camp Leakey feeding platform to pig out on the bananas so he was the first one we saw on our two-day trip into the Kalimantan (Borneo) jungle to see the orangutans. He ate his fill then scarpered…

Ring of Fire

SUMBAWA – LOMBOK – GILI ISLANDS – BALI It’s pretty cool to be able to park your boat next to a volcano… “Precariously located above the grinding and mashing of tectonic plates, and ringed by a chain of fire-breathing volcanoes,”* Indonesia is located along part of the “ring of fire”, one of the most volatile…

Komodo Megafauna!

Komodo National Park has been a long-time check box on my bucket list for two main reasons: dragons and diving! The opportunity to hang out with the legendary giant lizards, the Komodo dragons, and the opportunity to dive on pristine reefs, possibly with manta-rays… …and it lived up to expectations! We got up close and…

Diving, snorkelling (and motoring) our way along Flores

We have spent the past 18 days transiting across the north coast of Flores, and without much wind, we’ve had to motor most of the time. In addition to the on-shore adventures we’ve been having like the village visits in Pulau Besar and the trip to Kelimutu volcano, one of the biggest highlights of Flores…

Stop! Thief!

We had been warned. But despite the warning, we still fell foul of Flores’ number one crime gang: the macaques (monkeys) of Kelimutu! The day started ordinarily enough. We woke early and met our driver in the pre-dawn dark out the front of a little resort in the beachside village of Geliting near Maumere on…